What We Ate in Lisbon

Lisbon’s food scene does not shout for attention but quietly offers a variety of traditional dishes, local cafés and lively markets. On this trip, we tried some classic dishes and a few favourites. Here is an account of what we ate, where we ate it and some history to add a little context.

Bacalhau Croquettes at Martinha de Arcada, Praça do Comércio

We began at Martinha de Arcada, located in the busy Praça do Comércio. Bacalhau, or salted cod, is a staple in Portuguese cuisine, with more than 1,000 recipes dedicated to it across the country. Their croquettes were crisp on the outside and soft and salty in the middle. Martinha de Arcada is one of Lisbon’s oldest cafés, dating back to 1782, and has long been a favourite meeting place for writers, intellectuals and revolutionaries. It certainly adds character to the experience.

bacalhau

Grilled Cuttlefish at O Cartaxinho, near Marquês de Pombal

Our next stop was O Cartaxinho, a traditional tasca close to Marquês de Pombal. The grilled cuttlefish was simple but well cooked, smoky and tender with just enough bite. Seafood like cuttlefish has long been a cornerstone of Portuguese coastal cooking, often grilled over charcoal to bring out its natural flavours. Places like this focus on good ingredients and straightforward cooking. Accompanied by a glass of vinho verde, it felt like a genuine taste of coastal Portugal in the city.

Grilled cuttlefish

Pingado at Esplanada do Cantinho ao Sol, near Miradouro das Portas do Sol

After enjoying the views at Miradouro das Portas do Sol, we had a pingado at Esplanada do Cantinho ao Sol. A pingado is an espresso with a small amount of warm milk and it was a pleasant pick-me-up. Our tour leader recommended ordering a pingado to sound local. It is simple, unpretentious and genuinely part of daily Lisbon life. A plate of pastries was placed on our table without asking. Apparently this is common practice here. Our guide advised that if you don’t want them, just ask for them to be taken away; don’t feel bad. Coffee has been part of Portuguese culture since the 18th century, introduced through trade with Brazil and Asia. Sitting there watching the city rooftops felt like a proper Lisbon moment, calm and satisfying.

Pingado

Ginjinha at Ginjinha do Carmo

After finishing our Lisbon walk, we stopped by Ginjinha do Carmo near Carmo Square to try ginjinha, a traditional Portuguese cherry liqueur. It is served in a small chocolate cup, which adds a sweet twist to the slightly tart, warming drink. Ginjinha has been produced in Portugal since the 19th century and is a beloved local spirit. The shop has been around for decades and feels like a tiny slice of Lisbon’s history in a glass.

Ginjinha in a chocolate cup

Bifana at Time Out Market

One of Lisbon’s most famous street foods, the bifana, is a simple but satisfying pork sandwich. Thin slices of pork are marinated with garlic, white wine and spices, then simmered and served in a crusty bread roll, often with a smear of mustard or a splash of piri piri for heat. While the true classics are usually found at old school tascas, we tried a modern take at Time Out Market. The food hall buzzes with energy, and biting into that juicy pork with the bread soaking up all the flavour felt like a Lisbon essential.

Pastéis de Nata in Belém

No visit to Portugal is complete without a pastel de nata, and Belém is where it all began. Pastéis de Belém is the original bakery, serving flaky, custard-filled tarts since the 18th century based on a recipe from monks nearby. These tarts were initially created as a way to use leftover egg yolks from the monastery’s use of egg whites for starching clothes.

The main counter usually has a long queue. People wait either to get a table inside or to take photos of the historic counter behind the glass. We chose the secondary counter, which was quicker and just as good if you are happy to take your tarts away. Fresh from the oven with a sprinkle of cinnamon, these tarts are well worth seeking out.

Francesinha and Bacalhau Croquettes at Restaurante Duque

We finished at Restaurante Duque with some hearty classics. Francesinha is originally from Porto and is a layered sandwich covered in melted cheese and a spicy beer sauce. It was created in the 1960s by a Portuguese immigrant returning from France, inspired by the croque-monsieur. It is quite rich but satisfying. We also had bacalhau croquettes here, which were very good. The atmosphere was cosy, a pleasant place to enjoy a meal with a drink.

Our List for Next Time

There were a few places we didn’t get around to this time but would like to try on a future visit, along with some of their well-known dishes:

• Bonjardim, near Baixa — famous for its spicy and smoky peri peri chicken with crispy skin. Peri peri sauce comes from African bird’s eye chili, brought to Portugal through colonial ties.

• Pastelaria Santo António, near Alfama — known for traditional pastries inspired by Lisbon’s rich history, including the Travesseiros de Sintra.

• Manteigaria — a highly regarded bakery for fresh and creamy pastéis de nata that rival those of Pastéis de Belém.

• Clube de Fado — offers authentic sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines) alongside live Fado music for a full experience.

• Casa do Alentejo — renowned for authentic Alentejo cuisine such as migas, a comforting dish of breadcrumbs, garlic and pork that reflects the rural traditions of southern Portugal.

Final Thoughts

Lisbon may not shout about its food, but those who listen closely find a delicious harmony of history, tradition, and modern flair. From flaky pastéis de nata to a juicy bifana that sneaks up on you at Time Out Market, the city offers a bite for every mood. So next time you’re wandering the cobbled streets, follow your nose and hunger—it knows the way.