What We Ate in Carcassonne
We spent two nights in Carcassonne as part of our week-long holiday exploring Andorra and Occitanie. Between wandering the medieval fortress and soaking up the local vibes, we made sure to fuel up with some classic regional eats. Here’s a taste of what kept us going in this historic town.
La Briocherie Arpin (Place Carnot)
When a sudden downpour caught us unprepared, no jackets, no umbrellas, we made a beeline for Brioche Arpin. What started as a quick shelter turned into a proper welcome to French comfort food. We tucked into a flaky, smoky Quiche Lorraine, which was surprisingly different from what we expected. Fun fact: the original quiche had no cheese at all, just eggs, cream, and bacon. This one did, and it made all the difference, the gooey richness cutting through the smoky bacon beautifully. Alongside, a crispy, golden Croque Monsieur arrived, all melty cheese and ham between perfectly toasted bread, ideal fortress-fuel. To round things off, a light Éclair au Café with its delicate coffee cream was just the sweet note we needed. And washing it down was a refreshing, zesty Schweppes Agrumes aux Saveurs, a bubbly citrus kick to brighten the rainy day. Honestly, Brioche Arpin felt like the posh French cousin of Greggs.
Adelaide (La Cité de Carcassonne)
Dinner that night was a solid local recommendation from our hotel receptionist. She handed us three restaurant names to try, and Adelaide was the first, definitely a chef’s kiss. We settled in for a classic three-course feast: a warming Soupe à l’Oignon to start, its caramelised onions swimming in savory broth and topped with bubbly melted cheese, felt like a hug in a bowl. Then came the star, Cassoulet traditionnel — a rich, slow-cooked white bean stew with tender pork, duck confit, and smoky Toulouse sausage. It’s the kind of dish that fills you from the inside out, with beans so creamy and meat so tender it melts away any travel fatigue. Every village claims its own secret recipe for cassoulet, and this one didn’t disappoint. A basket of crusty pain sat ready to soak up every last delicious drop. For dessert, a silky Crème Brûlée finished the meal on a perfect sweet note, that caramelised sugar crackling under the spoon. All accompanied by a generous carafe of house vin blanc de la maison, medieval town fuel indeed.
Le Glacier (La Cité de Carcassonne)
The next day, for a quick sweet pick-me-up, we stopped by Le Glacier inside the medieval city. I opted for a rich, coffee-flavored scoop perched on a crisp waffle cone, just the right amount of indulgence to power us through the cobbled streets and castle climbs.
L’Aquarelle Crêperie Restaurant (La Cité de Carcassonne)
Later, we couldn’t resist a proper French classic, a Galette Complète downstairs at L’Aquarelle. This savory buckwheat crêpe, filled with melted Emmental cheese, a perfectly runny fried egg, and savory ham, was comfort food at its finest, crispy edges giving way to gooey, melty goodness. We were stubborn about not leaving France without trying at least one crepe or galette, and this hit the spot. Paired with their smooth, easy-drinking vin blanc de la maison, it was the perfect light meal to keep the medieval magic alive.
Restaurant Le Vintage (Rue Trivalle)
For our final night, we opted for a lighter three-course meal at Le Vintage. I kicked off with a refreshing Gazpacho, perfect for waking up the palate. My main was a medium-rare Entrecôte served with crispy fries and a fresh salad, simple but cooked just right. Nick started with a shrimp salad before diving into Escalope de Poulet à la Crème aux Champignons, tender chicken breast in a creamy mushroom sauce, accompanied by fries and salad. Both of us chose the tangy Tarte au Citron for dessert, a classic lemon tart that’s been a European favourite for centuries, its bright zing cutting through the richness of the meal. Naturally, we washed it all down with the trusty carafe of vin blanc de la maison.
Final Thoughts
This was our first time diving properly into traditional French food, and honestly, it felt so homey, like comfort on a plate if you know what I mean. There’s something about regional dishes that makes the holiday feel fuller, richer, like you’re tasting the place, not just passing through it.
Big shoutout to our hotel receptionist whose restaurant recommendations were spot on. She gave us three must-visit spots, and Adelaide was definitely a chef’s kiss, that cassoulet was a standout we won’t forget anytime soon. It’s a reminder that sometimes the best meals come from local tips, not just the usual tourist trails.
Carcassonne’s food scene showed us that eating local isn’t just about checking boxes; it’s about soaking up culture, stories, and history with every bite. So if you find yourself here, come hungry and let the food be part of your adventure.
