What We Ate in Fez

After a long bus ride from Chefchaouen, we arrived in Fez, ready to dive into the city’s vibrant streets and rich history. But, after a tiring journey, all we really wanted was to check in, relax, and unwind. However, our tour leader had other plans. “You’re joining a food tour with a local guide,” he said. To be honest, food tours aren’t usually my thing, as my stomach isn’t always up for trying new things on the spot. But being polite (and a little curious), we decided to give it a go.

Fez el-Bali Food Tour

We started our food tour few steps away  in Fez el-Bali, where the narrow lanes of the Medina are filled with life. Everywhere you turn, there’s something new to see and smell. Our guide led us through the maze, starting with a spread of small dishes.

First, we had Harcha, a thick, round flatbread made from semolina, with a slightly crispy exterior and soft inside — perfect for tearing apart and dipping into olive oil and fresh herbs. Next came Beghrir, a spongy, crumpet-like bread, light and airy, ideal for soaking up honey or dipping into a rich stew. The third was Msemen, a layered flatbread with a chewy texture and crispy edges — a lovely contrast of textures.

After the flatbreads, we tried a variety of olives, from plain, earthy green olives to fiery, spiced ones. The spices were rich and complex, with garlic, cumin, and paprika adding depth to every bite.

Our guide then led us into a bustling café, where we joined some locals at their table. Before we knew it, we were handed khobz and a steaming bowl of harira, a hearty, comforting soup, spiced just right. Along with that came a plate of crispy, crumbed muhammar (fried liver), served with fresh herbs and a tangy dipping sauce.

As the meal continued, we were given maakouda, deep-fried mashed potatoes. They were golden on the outside, creamy inside, and perfect with the tangy dipping sauce they came with.

For dessert, we wrapped up with briouats, triangle-shaped pastries filled with honey and nuts. The pastries were golden, crispy, and sticky with honey, the nuts inside adding a satisfying crunch. The perfect sweet ending to a flavour-packed meal.

Ryad Nejjarine

The next day, we found ourselves back in the Medina for another food experience, this time at Ryad Nejjarine, a lovely restaurant tucked away in the heart of Fez el-Bali. You might walk right past the door, but once you step inside, you’re greeted by soft lighting, intricate tilework, and a calm atmosphere that’s a welcome break from the bustle of the streets.

We were treated to a spread of nine small plates, a Moroccan-style mezze. There was bread, warm and perfect for dipping, along with marinated olives that were bursting with flavour. We tried Zaalouk, a smoky, spiced eggplant and tomato salad, and Taktouka, a roasted pepper and tomato salad. There were also fresh, lightly seasoned carrot and beetroot salads, as well as chickpeas cooked to perfection. A plate of potatoes added a comforting touch, while cauliflower and eggplant brought a lovely earthiness to the spread.

For the main dishes, I went for the couscous with seven vegetables. The couscous was light and fluffy, perfectly complemented by tender, seasonal vegetables — carrots, zucchini, squash, and more — all cooked in a rich, aromatic broth.

My husband opted for the chicken pastilla, a sweet and savoury pastry filled with tender chicken, almonds, and a hint of cinnamon, all wrapped in flaky pastry. It was a beautiful balance of textures and flavours, a true Moroccan classic.

For dessert, we were given fresh fruits, which were refreshing and light, and ghriba, a delicate, crumbly Moroccan biscuit, lightly sweet with a touch of almond. The perfect way to end a wonderful meal.

With the meal behind us, we set out to explore Fez on foot. The Medina’s labyrinthine streets beckoned, full of hidden gems and centuries of history. As we walked, each turn brought us closer to the soul of the city, where the past and present blend seamlessly, making every step feel like part of a much larger story.