Shkodër, the heart of northern Albania, carries the echoes of its long past. Venetian facades, Ottoman mosques, and Illyrian legends meet where three rivers flow. It is a city that moves at its own pace, calm and enduring, the quiet pause before the journey north to Lake Komani.

We climbed Rozafa Hill under the June sun, following the story of an Illyrian fortress built on sacrifice and overlooking the rivers Buna, Drin, and Kir.