A Sweet Detour: Exploring Duenas Convent in Salamanca
After our walking loop around Salamanca, we headed to the Convento de las Dueñas. At first, we weren’t entirely sure why this was on the itinerary, but it quickly became clear it wasn’t just for the history lesson.
The convent was founded in 1419 by Juana Rodríguez de Monroy, a noblewoman who turned her former palace into a convent for women of the local aristocracy. It was built in what was once a Moorish-style palace, and some of the original gates are still preserved, giving a glimpse of the building’s past as a residence before it became a religious space.
We started our visit in the museum, wandering through rooms filled with religious artifacts, paintings, and documents. One of the rooms had a striking painting of a black nun, known as La Negrita. She was the first black woman to enter a cloistered convent in Spain and, despite being treated as a servant because of her skin color, she remained devoted to her faith. Seeing her there made you pause and think about the stories behind these walls.
Next, we explored the cloisters, which date from around 1533. The upper capitals are Plateresque, full of ornate, fantastical carvings. I even spotted one carving that looked just like my father-in-law, which gave us a good laugh. From the cloisters, we could also see parts of the cathedral, though we weren’t sure if it was the old or new one. The cloister layout is unusual, irregular pentagonal with arches varying from two to seven per side, and even the floors had decorative details, like interlocking diamond patterns. The combination of Gothic, Mudejar, and Renaissance elements makes it one of Salamanca’s more unique religious buildings.
Finally, and perhaps most surprisingly, our tour leader revealed the real reason we were there, the cookies made by the nuns. These are not available on a whim. They are sold at set times. You can purchase their homemade sweets during the following hours:
Monday to Saturday:
Morning: 10:30 AM to 12:45 PM
Afternoon: 4:30 PM to 7:15 PM
Closed on Sundays and public holidays turismocastillayleon.com
We were fortunate to catch the window and stocked up on pastelitos, anise cookies, and mantecados. It was a sweet ending, literally, to our visit.
Visitor Tips:
Location: Plaza Concilio de Trento, 37001 Salamanca
Entry Fee: Around €2
Hours: Check before visiting, as they can vary
Visiting the Convento de las Dueñas was more than just a historical stop. From the museum and cloisters to the story of La Negrita, the funny carving, the peek at the cathedral, and the convent’s delicious sweets, it was a charming detour from the main walking loop, full of history, character, and little surprises.
