Nicosia (Lefkoşa) North Side: Mosques, Mansions & Ottoman Walls
Crossing into Lefkoşa, the northern part of Nicosia, felt like stepping into a totally different world. Lefkoşa is the Turkish name for Nicosia and refers specifically to the part of the city under Turkish Cypriot administration. The streets were quieter, the pace slower, and the mix of Ottoman mosques, medieval mansions, and Venetian gates gave the area a unique charm. Winding down narrow lanes, we spotted small cafés, artisan shops, and tucked-away squares, and it felt like we were exploring a city frozen in layers of history. Walking at our own pace, we wanted to see every corner we could.
⏱️ Lefkoşa Walking Route
Route: Ledra Street Border Crossing > Arasta Street > Selimiye Mosque > Haydar Pasha Mosque > Lusignan House > Yeni Camii > Kyrenia Gate > Atatürk Square > Büyük Han > Ledra Street Border Crossing
Style: Loop, mostly flat with some cobbles
Good for: First-time visitors, history lovers, people who like wandering
🚧 Ledra Street Border Crossing (00:00–00:10)
We started at the border crossing and it felt surreal. One minute we were in the busy south, the next we were in Lefkoşa. Shops and cafés flanked the street and it was a lively introduction to this part of the city. Don’t forget your passport or identity card.
🛍️ Arasta Street (00:10–00:20)
Arasta Street is technically a historic market street from Ottoman times, but now it is mostly shops selling fake designer bags and souvenirs. We wandered slowly, weaving past the stalls, and couldn’t help but chuckle at some of the knock-offs on display. There were a few small cafés tucked in. It is worth a stroll if only to get a feel for the street, but don’t expect authentic shopping.
🕌 Selimiye Mosque (00:20–00:30)
Selimiye Mosque historically known as Cathedral of Saint Sophia, is a former Roman Catholic cathedral converted into a mosque from the 13th century and became a mosque after the Ottoman conquest in 1570. Its Gothic arches are huge and dramatic and even standing outside gives you a sense of the history. We didn’t spend long as it was prayer time but it was impressive to see up close.
🕌 Haydar Pasha Mosque (00:30–00:35)
The next stop was Haydar Pasha Mosque - it is smaller and simpler than Selimiye but very peaceful. It was originally built as the Cathedral of St Catherine by the Lusignans in the 14th century, becoming the second largest church in Nicosia at that time. It has been serving the community in Lefkoşa since Ottoman times. We stopped for a moment just to take it in and enjoy the calm.
🏠 Lusignan House (00:35–00:55)
I didnt know about this place until we walked passed it. The Lusignan House was built in the 15th century and has a mix of Gothic and Ottoman features. We went in for a quick visit. It is not very big and we probably spent about 20 minutes wandering around and imagining what life would have been like here hundreds of years ago. Entry is cash only so bring your Turkish lira or Euros.
🕌 Yeni Camii (00:55–01:00)
Yeni Camii or New Mosque was built in the 18th century on the site of an older church. Its small courtyard felt calm and the architecture is subtle but charming. The gates were open so we paused for a few photos.
🏰 Kyrenia Gate (01:00–01:10)
Kyrenia Gate was built by the Venetians in 1567 and restored by the Ottomans. Walking by it felt like stepping into history. You can almost imagine merchants and soldiers passing through centuries ago.
🏙️ Atatürk Square (01:10–01:20)
The square is surrounded by cafés and shops and has a very relaxed vibe. We found a bench, sat for a moment, and watched people going about their day. It felt like the heart of Lefkoşa.
☕ Büyük Han (01:20–01:40)
Büyük Han is probably the highlight of the walk. Built in the 1570s as a caravanserai, it now has artisan shops and small galleries. We stopped for a while and soaked in the atmosphere. It was busy but not overwhelming and had a cool vibe.
🚧 Back to Ledra Street Border Crossing (01:40–01:50)
We looped back to where we started. Lefkoşa is compact but full of character. Walking slowly meant we could enjoy the streets, the architecture, and the little details without feeling rushed.
📸 Best Selfie Spots
🚧 Ledra Street Border Crossing – iconic checkpoint
🕌 Selimiye Mosque – dramatic Gothic arches
🏰 Kyrenia Gate – Venetian stonework
☕ Büyük Han – lively courtyard
💡 Pro Tips
Wear comfortable shoes as streets are often cobbled 👟
Bring a camera for hidden corners and historic details 📸
Modest dress is appreciated in mosques 🕌
Start early to enjoy quieter streets and softer light 🌅
🕰 More to Explore
Wander deeper into the historic lanes of Lefkoşa 🏘️
Check out galleries inside Büyük Han 🎨
Spot Ottoman-era fountains and old mansions 🏛️
Final Thoughts
Walking around Lefkoşa felt like stepping into a different world just minutes from the south side. Mosques, mansions, gates, and lively squares all in one small area. It is charming, full of history, and left us wanting to explore even more corners of this fascinating city with a coffee in hand ☕ next time.
