Memory Lane: Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Sarajevo was one of those places where you feel history under your feet the whole time. We visited in 2017 and joined a walking tour in the afternoon, which was the perfect way to see the city properly in just a few hours.

We started in the Old Town (Baščaršija), where the streets feel like a blend of Ottoman and European, and every corner seems to lead to a landmark. We passed the Sebilj fountain, wandered through the bazaar lanes, and stopped by the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. Not long after, we were also standing outside the Orthodox Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos, which really showed how Sarajevo is built from layers of different cultures and faiths.

We also saw the stunning Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica), one of those buildings that makes you stop mid-walk just to stare at it.

One of my favourite parts was wandering through the copperware street, Kazandžiluk, where the shopfronts are full of handmade metalwork and traditional coffee sets. We stopped in Café Index for Bosnian coffee, which is similar to Turkish coffee, strong, traditional, and served in a way that makes it feel like a ritual rather than just a drink.

Of course, we visited the spot near the Latin Bridge, where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, setting off the chain of events that led to World War I. It’s one of those moments where you realise you’re standing in a place you’ve heard about your whole life.

We ended the day with ćevapi at Inat Kuća (the “House of Spite”), which felt like the most Sarajevo ending possible. The weather stayed lovely all afternoon, and the city surprised me in the best way: warm, fascinating, and full of stories.